I enjoy restoring dolls and would love to clean and restore yours for you. I am a self-taught doll restorationist. Please see my before and after photos to determine the quality of my work. I work a full-time job, so I do restorations as I find the time.
I work to retain as much originality of the doll as possible. I do not do any repairs or renovations that I don't feel are necessary. I can do as little or as much restoration as you would like. If you simply want me to clean your doll and do minor work without completely repainting, that's what I'll do. The choice is yours.
This is a question only you can answer. In my opinion: Restoration is an investment, which should be weighed. It should be reserved for dolls that can no longer be enjoyed because they are in such poor condition.
If a doll is valuable (worth $150 or more in good shape) and a wreck, it is probably worth restoring her. If she has minimal damage, I would leave her alone. Examples would be composition Shirley Temples and Patsy family dolls, 1950’s hard plastic Madame Alexander dolls and Vintage Barbie Ponytails.
If you have a doll that is a wreck and has only sentimental value, you may restore her to preserve her longer and to be able to display and enjoy her.
If you have a doll that is not valuable (worth less than $150 in good shape) and not sentimental either, I would not restore her.
NOTE: Restoration tends to last for several years, but the things that caused the doll to crack originally will eventually do the same again. Keep this in mind when weighing your decision to pay for restoration. She will still be an old doll and just like everything else, will continue to deteriorate with time.
Composition Dolls: $15 per inch (example: 18” doll is $270). I do not replace the limbs or bodies on composition dolls and I do not clean the bodies other than vacuuming or spot cleaning. I do however, repair any limbs and replace missing fingers/toes with epoxy based sculpting compound. This is included in pricing.
Vintage Barbies: $15 per inch, which makes the cost $172. This price does not include replacement of any limbs. It does include everything else to make your doll beautiful again. Green ear treatment included*.
All Other Dolls- Hard Plastic and Vinyl ( I do not restore porcelain or bisque dolls) $15 per inch with a minimum price of $150. Example: Madame Alexander 14” hard plastic doll would be $210 and a Madame Alexander 20” Cissy Doll would be $300. A 1950’s hard plastic 8” Vogue Ginny Doll would be the minimum of $150. Again, this does not include replacing limbs.
Wigs-I wash and restyle most wigs. This is included in restoration prices. There is risk of losing some of the hair when doing this.
Clothing: In most cases, I can clean your doll's clothing. There are certain risks with this. It is included in the cost of a restoration.
If I feel your clothing is too fragile or damaged for the process, I'll let you know. You can send your doll's clothing with her and I'll redress her after the restoration is complete.
Note about Green Ear in Vintage Barbies: I can NOT guarantee to remove all green ear. I use a long process and will lift much of the green, but many times not all of it. Sometimes there is still a hue of green depending on how bad the doll was to begin with. In mild cases, it usually removes all of it. The process will take me a few weeks to complete so Barbie’s with extensive green ear will take longer for me to complete.
If you are unsure which price fits your doll. Please email me at: jparkerparis@aol.com for a free quote.
COMPOSITION DOLLS- I do not completely remove all paint from my composition dolls. Some restorationists believe this is necessary; I do not. Instead, I remove all lifting areas only. I use wood glue (composition is wood) on the edges only of the missing paint to secure the remaining paint and prevent further lifting. Then I fill the area with putty/sculpting compound, sand the area smooth. I repaint the area or the entire doll (whichever is needed) and seal with a protective clear coat. Next, I touch up or repaint facial features: lips, nose dots, eye dots, eyelashes, eyebrows and blush (on cheeks, knees, hands, back of elbows and top of feet). After this I add another clear coat. In all, your doll will get a minimum of two coats of paint and three coats of clear sealer. This should keep her from crazing again for many years to come and possibly forever.
Craze Lines and Cracks- Composition Dolls
I fill and cover craze lines and cracks. Small craze lines can often be covered/filled with paint. Deeper cracks require a filler. I remove all lifting paint, fill with putty and sand to a smooth finish.
Painting
I either match the paint for spot treatment or completely repaint the entire doll when necessary. I use acrylic paints and an airbrush. I only completely repaint composition dolls. I just touch up other dolls as needed. At one time, I hand-painted the hair of composition dolls. You'll see some of my dolls have hand-painted hair. I now only airbrush hair. Airbrushing looks more original.
Broken/Missing Areas
I resculpt toes, fingers etc. on composition dolls.
I can reattach most broken limbs.
Stringing
I restring your doll, if needed
Facial Features
I touch up or repaint all facial features as needed.
Clear Coating
I seal composition dolls with satin varnish to help prevent future crazing.
Wigs
I remove and gently wash mohair and human hair wigs (when needed) and restyle your dolls hair. I comb and curl your mohair and human hair wigs with a small curling iron and finish it with hairspray. I wash and curl synthetic hair with rollers (synthetic hair would melt with a curling iron). Then I re-style and hairspray. If your wig needs to be replaced, we will discuss our options. Often, I can save wigs in very poor condition as long as there is still enough hair for me to work with.
Eyes
I prefer to enhance shattered original eyes (paint pupils and iris's if needed and then cover with a shiny clear coat) instead of replacing eyes. I do not work on broken/non-functioning eyes or replace hair eyelashes. I repaint your painted eyelashes when needed.
ALL ABOVE IS INCLUDED IN FULL RESTORATION PRICE. YOU MUST ALSO PAY TO SHIP YOUR DOLL TO AND FROM MY HOUSE.
It will take approximately 4-6 weeks from the time I receive your doll for me to finish it. It is a very tedious and time-consuming task.
ALL RESTORATIONS MUST BE PAID IN FULL BEFORE WORK BEGINS ON A DOLL. YOU MUST ALSO PAY FOR RETURN SHIPPING WITH INSURANCE FOR YOUR DOLL UPFRONT. THE SHIPPING AMOUNT WILL DEPEND ON WEIGHT, SIZE AND VALUE OF THE DOLL. CONTACT ME FOR DETAILS AND A QUOTE. IF WE AGREE UPON A RESTORATION, I WILL SEND YOU AN INVOICE AND ADDRESS TO MY HOME UPFRONT. USE THE CONTACT FORM BELOW OR EMAIL ME AT: jparkerparis@aol.com FOR A FREE QUOTE.
DISCLAIMER:
I can not guarantee that I can erase all traces of damage to your doll. There is sometimes evidence of a repair if an area was seriously damaged. I do promise you will be amazed at the transformation and your doll will look 100% better. Just remember she will still be a very old doll!
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